David Frank
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Seattle #28: Lots of places ban guns...because guns are allowed in the first place.

6/4/2018

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Many retail and dining places have signs on their door stating that firearms are banned in their establishment. Of course I have never seen anything like it anywhere else in the world. Instead of making me feel safer, it's a frequent reminder of the prevalence of guns here.

​In November 2017, the Washington state senate (parliament) banned the public from bringing concealed guns into the viewing gallery, three years after banning open-carry weapons there. But don't worry, openly carried weapons are still allowed in the main public areas.

In other countries we do not have signs about guns, and guns are rarely discussed personally or in the media. Frequent news of shootings in the suburbs near me are one of the biggest cons of living here. I have no doubt "saliency bias" is at play here - other things kill more often, but this is a thing I am reminded of more often - it is more 'salient' to me, so I think it is of a greater risk to me.

The guns here definitely freak me out, and I am forced to think about this horrible thing more often than I imagined I would. It's definitely one of the more horrible things about living here.
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​Seattle #27: Machines (not) understanding me.

30/3/2018

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I've given up on telephone services in which a machine asks "in a few words, tell us why you called so we can put you through to the right department." Mind you, humans on the other end of the line struggle enough that I put an English accent on so that I am understandable. 

I find having an Amazon Echo very useful for converting metric/imperial units (which need to do all the time), converting currencies and setting timers/alarms, but it does tend to struggle with my Australian accent, whereas my Google Voice Assistant on my phone is generally flawless with Aussie accents, from the strong, "broad" Strine Australian accent (think Crocodile Hunter Steve Irwin) to Standard Australian and Cultivated Australian (the Australian equivalent of the mid-Atlantic accent Kelsey Grammar as Frasier Crane used). I tend towards the latter in the US so people and machines can understand me.

Still, it could be worse. I could be Scottish, some of whom try as they might were totally unintelligible to me.
​The random wake up word detections results are weird though. I'm not sure if it's just my strong Aussie vowels, but every now and then we'll be having a conversation and the Echo will behave as if summoned and will think we asked it something. Weird questions get answered and songs randomly start. Today the topic of 'poop' came up in conversation and Alexa loudly interrupted, declaring "I'm not equipped to do that."
I mean, I had assumed, but still, thank god.
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​Seattle #26: Dialect differences.

23/3/2018

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Sometimes I have to concentrate harder to remember or swap words or grammar, both when listening and speaking, just as I used to have to in the UK. It took a couple years to stop getting confused and confusing people in the UK, and I have had to restart the process here.

Just this week I asked someone "how did you find X"?
Them: "Where did I find it?"
Me: "No, how do you LIKE it."
This sequence happened TWICE in the same conversation with the same person. Apparently I need to learn.

I have friends in the US who happen to have lived in both the US and UK and are aware I use weird Australian definitions  for words, and know not to accept at face value my usage of words like "cookie", "cracker", "biscuit" and "yes honey, I promise."
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British biscuits.
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American biscuits. Similar to a British "scone", except savory, less dense, and I don't like them.

​I should add to this list the Australian definition of "chips" meaning both "fries" and "crisps", "pants" meaning "trousers" and not "underpants" as it does in the UK, "spunk" meaning "semen" and not "vigor", as Coke's Dasani brand found out when they disastrously launched in the UK, and fanny = vagina and not butt.  That's why we call them "bum-bags", not "fanny-packs."
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There're also definitions of leaving the toilet seat down, doing the dishes and making the bed. This has lead to a lot of frustration for other people, when really it's allllll miscommunication.

What truly astounds me is how massive the list is, how different Australian English is from both British and American English in different ways, and how often I confuse people or have to ask for clarification on simple things. Good thing I clearly have a foreign accent, otherwise people would think I'm stupid.

I've since discussed this with fellow Aussies who have told me they encounter the same thing. One friend said...
"The one that got me when I first moved to England was "you right” (short for are you alright) which means hello. The first time this was said to me I thought that I was looking particularly pale / had some other visible distress that I wasn't aware of!"
Another Aussie in Scotland said
"In the UK when people asked me if I was alright, I would answer with how I was doing because I thought they wanted to know."
And a friend who runs a small business in Australia said
In my business, I want to know what marketing we're doing brings in the most work, so I ask new clients what lead them to us. In the beginning, I used to ask, "How did you find us?" but most times they'd respond with something like, "Pretty good" or "Yeah, I'd definitely recommend you." :D
Now I ask them, "Where did you find us?" and there's no longer any ambiguity.
This reminds me of when I MC events, during the warm-up I ask:
By show of hands, who found out about us through:
Facebook..?
Meetup..?
Email newsletter..?
Apparition in the middle of the night..? Did I personally appear to you in a dream..?
And on that note, if you could post in the comments how you found this blog, both how you like it, and how you came about it, that would be much appreciated. 
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​Seattle #25: With the such generous rewards, you're a fool if you don't use credit

16/3/2018

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Fees are rare as retailers and restaurants build that expense into their prices. Credit card rewards here are the most generous of any place I have been, and while flying miles are popular, 1.5% cashback is also common, which is sometimes increased to 5% at supermarkets/restaurants. There are often excellent temporary rewards, like 15% cashback at Macy's Online Dept Store, or 30% off your first purchase at other online stores. Three-month price protection and extra warranties also make credit cards a money saver. 

So if you're choosing to pay by cash, cheque/check or debit card, or you're not eligible for a credit card at all because you have a insufficient credit score (e.g. you're a new resident), you're effectively paying more for everything. It's also another tax on the poor, not unique to this country, but far more than the other countries.

It took months of living here to build up enough credit history to have a credit card, and because furnished rentals aren't really a thing here, the expense of setting up a new home was compounded by the lack of a credit card at the time.
Incidentally, I have also one of those people I never thought I would be. I have joined the hordes of people who are proud of their expensive couch. I've become one of those people.
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​Seattle #24: Vulnerable banking System, cheques ("checks") and cash

9/3/2018

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Gone are the days of direct debiting my bills, only having a debit card, or even using normal checks (not that I ever have.) This is because once someone knows your US bank account number, you're susceptible to fraud. My first few months here I used cash and paid my rent by cashiers cheque. I literally walked down to the bank and had them issue me a fresh paper cheque of their own which I then walked over to my landlord. For bills, cashiers cheques can also be ordered online and automatically printed and posted to your bill provider, which I think takes days. (At least that's how I think it works?)

​Eventually I built up enough credit history to get a credit card, so I use that and no longer need to carry cash, but many Americans do not or can not. This is why those big stores having their credit card systems being hacked is such a big deal - debit cards have inferior fraud protection, and debit card consumers may be out of pocket for months as fraudulent transactions are is resolved.

Mind you, this is better than card-wary, cash-loving Japan, where ATMs close at night and on holidays. My recent trip to Berlin was also frustrating, as card payment is not as common as one might expect. Mind you, I'm not from a country that used to be fascist or experienced economic turmoil on the scales these countries have. 

Having said that, I can pay by credit card everywhere, even the tiniest food trucks, and there is almost never any minimum spend, and extra fees for paying by credit are rare. Split billing at restaurants, usually refused in Western Australia, is also normal here, and very efficient.

Once again, this place, like all others, has both pros and cons.
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Seattle #23: The sad state of mainstream American chocolate.

2/3/2018

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It's no secret that Hershey's is the dominant chocolate manufacturer in the US with a 45% market share. In 1988 Hershey paid $300m for Cadbury's operations and right to manufacture Cadbury brands in the US. Hershey also makes Nestle's KitKats under license here. It's also well known that Hershey are unique for using use soured milk in their recipe. Close your eyes and Hershey's and it smells like puke for a reason.

So I spend more on Lindt (with a 9% market share) and local niche brands (Theo's), and ask visiting Brits and Aussies to supply me with the good stuff (Tim Tams, Kinder Bueno, Tunnock's Caramel Bars).

I think I'm known as the person with an amazing imported sweets bowl.
​
Oh my god, I am becoming my grandmother!
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My private haul from my recent trip to Scotland and Germany. This makes up my secret stash and will NOT make the sharing bowl.
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Seattle #22: The honeymoon period – will it last?

23/2/2018

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It took 9 months to settle into Tokyo. I was struggling in almost every way, culturally, socially, in practical ways, financially, and then I had to go home for a funeral. People in Australia at the time would ask how my move to Japan was going, and I would answer honestly - not well, I'm not happy there, but I'm definitely going back because I am determined to have made it worth it. It was a turning point for me, and by the time I left Japan at the end of that year, I was the happiest I had ever been in my life. But I knew I was leaving at the peak, as many expats hit their 2 year anniversary in Japan and become miserable. Those who stay longer are generally fine, but sometimes you’d meet embittered long-timer expat (or, *ghasp*, immigrant). I understood their grouchiness by a thousand frustrations, from the constant reminders that you’ll never be considered one of the Japanese, the spectacular bureaucracy and the toxic corporate culture – it just hadn’t gotten to me yet. I like to think I made the right decision leaving when I did.

Hanoi was different, and I instantly had a lot of fun there, but I definitely think the cycle is much shorter there. Quicker honeymoon period, but it will wear thin on you much quicker. I quite enjoyed one small book by a jaded expat.

Edinburgh was similar to Japan, probably owing to the fact that I moved there in Autumn, just as events where one can make friends are winding down, but the following spring my social life and happiness blossomed, and did so permanently.

It took 5 months to find my happiness in Seattle. I have a wonderful home, social circles, and I’m even the fittest I have been since I was a teenager, but I wonder if this is my new normal level of happiness, or just the honeymoon period and I'll turn into a grizzled expat or immigrant like in Japan. I don’t think it’s the same here because the culture is less alien and the cons are very different. Unhealthy food, violence, and expensive healthcare are the first cons that come to my mind, not monoculture, toxic work culture and impermeable social barriers. Furthermore, this is my fifth country I have lived in in five years. I learned every place has its pros and cons, and I have the experience that allows me to truly appreciate the great things here.
Whether this is my home for a couple decades , or the rest of my days, I think I’ll be very happy here.
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Seattle #21: Street drug addicts and mentally ill.

16/2/2018

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I lived in Leith, Edinburgh, Scotland, where Trainspotting is based. The area has a methadone clinic on Great Junction Street, also (not so) affectionately called "Great Junkie Street." The area was decimated by the HIV epidemic in the 90s, but the area is now gentrifying, with beggars sitting outside of high-end eateries and stores on Leith Walk. While there are many similarities to Seattle, it's very obvious America takes a lot less care of its' mentally ill, addicted, uneducated and poor, although Seattle clearly does a lot better than many places in the US.

Seattle's problem is exacerbated by the fact that the city has effectively legalised heroin, crack and meth by raising the bar on possession, and the police have a catch and release policy, without any actual treatment given. Numbers of addicts living here are also up because neighboring cities' police departments will issue non-extraditable misdemeanor arrest warrants for them, effectively turning Seattle into a dumping ground.

Not unique to Seattle or the US, police don't to waste their time on minor crimes. E.g. <$1000 in theft/damage, when a shoplifter fights store security but doesn't use a weapon, etc. This is because they know the county prosecutors will not file felony charges. Thus criminals target accordingly without fear of felony prosecution. I highly recommend this Reddit post by an anonymous Seattle cop explaining this.

Washington state also trails the nation in mental health treatment and has a high prevalence of mental illness. (Reference.)

I grew up in Perth, and for 5 years lived in a relatively dangerous area, Carlisle, between the Burswood Crown Casino and notorious Oats St Station. I felt unsafe on public transport more frequently than in Seattle, but I downright dread downtown bus changes where homeless people congregate. Overall, I would say I feel unsafe here enough that it is a major con of living here, and it's something I am forced to warn visitors, or prospective migrants about. Sorry Seattle and America - get your things together and help your fellow man like lots of other countries manage to.
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Seattle #20: Street fairs and parades

9/2/2018

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Americans love them, they're frequent, and they're done extremely well. Much better than Australia's poor attempts at Christmas parades.
- My first was Fremont Fair, which starts with a naked bike ride, and gets further liberal and artsy from there. If I hit my gym goal, I'll ride next year.
- A week later the Pride Parade blew my socks off, but at four hours, it was ridiculously long. FOUR HOURS!
- The Seafair Parade was weird and creepy. The grand marshals were a couple white, male B-list actors who had achieved moderate success. The floats were mostly three pretty women from a local rural food item festival awkwardly waving at everybody, corporate groups, military drill teams (very creepy to non-Americans), ethnic groups, marching bands (these were actually really good) and waving politicians with their entourages.

Next up, I need to go to county fairs. I can't wait to find out how they compare to Australian Royal Shows.
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Seattle #19: Quick movie releases, live TV, and cinema prices

2/2/2018

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I can watch Game of Thrones live at the comfortable time of 6pm Sunday, and not have to avoid the internet for a day for fear of OH MY GOD THEY JUST KILLED OFF ARYA STARK!!!!

As for movies, a popular past-time for people (locals and ex-pats) in Japan is to complain about how much later a popular movie is going to be released there, usually 3-6 months. I've even had friends post angry Facebook screenshots of release schedules. Apparently it's so they can market a movie as ""Number 1 in the USA!" You can read more about the reasons here.
Australia, in my youth, used to be the same, but has since gotten much better. 

Movie tickets are also much cheaper in the US. According to
 WorldAtlas.com, USA is $8.13, the UK $10.90, Japan $12.77, and Australia $12.95. However, these are national averages. I lived in Edinburgh, Tokyo and Perth, all expensive capital  cities, and are therefore even more expensive. I also currently pay even less in the US because I use Moviepass which is $10/month for unlimited movies. Yet another reason I love living in the US - experimental business models.
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Seattle #18: Credit

26/1/2018

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It's everywhere. It seems like every store has their own credit card, and I can't tell you how often salespeople offer me finance on my purchases. It's a big source of income for stores that compete on volume, not margin, and sales staff get commission. Its not only heavily pushed, but also totally normalized, and fits into the "why shouldn't I have something I want" materialistic culture here, which I think also thinks contributes to obesity and massive cars.

Debt statistics are crazy. The average US household is $16,748 in credit card debt and pays a total of $1,292 in credit card interest per year.
Ref: NerdWallet: American Household Credit Card Debt Study

This is also pushed by other financial institutions. If you want a mortgage in some places like Texas, you need to show three mature (older than 5 years) loans or credit cards. If you paid off your car loan, it no longer counts. It is likely that I will get an unnecessary car loan at some point for credit score purposes only.
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Seattle #16: Food snobbery, especially ...corn?

19/1/2018

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I mean this in the nicest way, really, I do.
I am a total sushi snob. It doesn't have to be amazing, but at least average. I did after all live in Tokyo, and I could get amazing sashimi salmon in Scotland. Cheese, ice cream, and tea too, I know what I like, and I'll accept something average by my standards, but all too many places disappoint.

I'm discovering locals are snobs about other, unexpected foods.
On a summer's day in June a friend from Iowa (America's biggest corn grower) came over for a BBQ and I asked him to bring over some corn. He almost refused, saying it's a terrible idea, it's far too early in the year for that, and he tried to talk me out of it.
The following morning he sent me this message:
"I'm with [two friends], both from Iowa. I told them you asked me to bring corn on the cob last night. They both scoffed and said "wtf it's way too early for that. Do they even sell it? You actually bought some? Was it horrible?""

So I put the call out to my friends for comments. One in Whistler, rural Washington said "Was there corn available? It isn't at my local grocer." Seattle had it. A Nebraskan, Minnesotan, a New Yorker and another Iowan friend all agreed it's best when bought off the road from the back of someone's truck. The Minnesotan, whom I knew from my time in Japan, grew his own corn on his Tokyo balcony just to have some!

I also received multiple offers to have some corn sent by post from corn-growing regions, but only once they're properly in-season. Apparently the saying "knee-high by the 4th of July" is important for this.

I probably shouldn't have my mind blown by the fact that certain foods are seasonal. There are plenty of foods I know to consume at their peak. Carrots produce sugar in the winter, watermelons in summer harvested after a hot and dry day are better, and virgin blood is best drank under a full moon.

I need to be careful though. I might become a convert to the cult of the children-of-the-corn-(snobs).

What snob I didn't even know existed will I disappoint next?
Apple aficionado? Juice junkie? Fish fanatic?
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Seattle #15: Marijuana - it's legal, and it's everywhere

12/1/2018

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As if seeing small cannabis stores it isn't weird enough, some specialize in selling premium cannabis, which just adds weirdness. Give it a few years and the market will no longer be dominated by independent outfits and will instead be mainly corporatized chain stores.

Billboard advertising is also legal here, whereas I think tobacco advertising restrictions should be extended to include cannabis and chewing tobacco.

You particularly smell it in certain suburbs, especially after-hours and on weekends. However, I think it stinks even worse than cigarettes. To me, you may as well be walking past an open sewer. 

What makes me really angry though, is when you smell it in parks. Sometimes next to playgrounds. Mind you, that's just because of individuals. Many suburbs of Tokyo ban outdoor smoking on the streets, and provide designated outdoor smoking areas. Often these are right next to a busy footpath or playground, therefore defeating the process in the first place.

It's worth noting that weed is only legal at the state level. When signing up for a Social Security Number, I had to enter a federal building with airport-level security. I walked past a VERY sorry looking guy in cuffs who didn't realize it was illegal to bring a pipe into a federal building. Priceless. :D
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Seattle #14: Medical Insurance

5/1/2018

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The country has the most broken medical insurance system I have ever seen. Vox did a great piece on how it isn't possible to get a quote on having a baby in a hospital. Adam Ruins Everything also did a great episode on why it's so expensive. This affects me though. Despite my great (and expensive) coverage, I was unable to get a quote on a medical scan because it came down to what billing code the doctor chose to use on the day. And it often takes a couple months for all billing to be sorted out. 

Many things are not covered by my insurer, which makes job ads where the company covers 100% of medical expenses very appealing. 

Having said that, in the UK, NHS funding means while everything is free, wait times can be long, and they don't always have the latest and most expensive equipment. I found Australia to have the best balance and reasonable pricing.
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Seattle #14: Food, part 2.

29/12/2017

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Some foods are so rich they're out of this world, like American sweet corn, cotton-candy grapes and Irish-imported Kerrygold butter. (Mixing the ultra-tasty corn with the rich butter is too rich though.) But as is well documented in academia, Americans like their food sweeter. Why anyone would want their canned chopped tomatoes to have added sugar, I don't know. Most American bread is also far too sweet for me to stomach, but not as sweet as Japan which was even worse.

Bulk purchase discounts at normal supermarkets are a bit crazy here - why I would want to buy 10 large cucumbers at once, I don't know (or want to know?), and 4L (1 gallon) bottles of milk are the most popular size sold.

I'm going through a process of finding out what products I like here, and where to get them. Many big international brands here are diferent to their overseas versions, such as Special K, so that heuristic goes out the window (not that there are many international brands I recognise here).

The good news is I'm slowly getting there. So far I can scratch gouda cheese off the list, but it's the only cheese so far. Premium gelato brands are sorted, as are luncheon meats and water-crackers, but other than that I have to be prepared for disappointment wen shopping and eating, at least for a while.
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    About this blog

    Musings, frustrations and wonderment from an Australian who moved to the US having never visited the country before. 

    ​This is the fifth country I have lived in in five years, and if I've learned one thing, it's that every place has its pros and cons.
    ​Published Fridays.

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